Ham is not the most valuable player on Christmas Day. That title goes to turkey stuffing, gravy, a glass of sparkling red before noon, or a stolen nip of St Agnes before spiking the custard.
The whole process takes 10 weeks, in which the ham is first dry-cured, then marinated, and then smoked. We visited Emmett's in Suffolk, England, where the ham has been made for 200 years.